Lighting Up Zagreb: The Story of the City’s Lamplighters
- Lucija Mandac Dadić
- Dec 1, 2024
- 4 min read
Updated: 11 minutes ago
For travelers and locals alike, witnessing the lamplighters at work is a unique experience that brings the city’s history to life. It’s a scene that invites you to slow down, to look around, and to appreciate the quiet, enchanting beauty of Zagreb at night.
In the heart of Zagreb, where history mingles with modernity, an age-old tradition continues to illuminate the city each night: the work of the nazigaci, or lamplighters. These dedicated individuals hand-light the gas lamps scattered across Zagreb's historic neighborhoods, transforming the streets into a warmly lit scenes from another era. Their daily routine is a tribute to a history stretching back over 150 years, adding a timeless glow to the modern city.
" There’s a shared understanding that the value of this tradition goes beyond the functional, it’s a tribute to the city’s heritage, a unique charm that defines Zagreb."
The Origins of the Tradition
Zagreb’s gas lamps were first installed in 1863, symbolizing a time when gaslight represented innovation and luxury. At that time, the city was introducing advancements that connected it to Europe’s grand capitals, and these new gas lamps quickly became a key part of city life. Each evening, the lamplighters would move through Zagreb's streets, lighting one lantern after another, casting a cozy glow across the city’s most iconic sites. Today, even with modern lighting alternatives, Zagreb has preserved this practice, retaining a piece of its past for locals and visitors alike.
The Role of a Modern Lamplighter
In 2024, there are about 214 gas lamps in Zagreb’s Upper Town, all of which are still manually lit by a team of lamplighters. Though much has changed since the 19th century, their role remains largely the same: they begin at sunset, lighting each lamp individually and returning at dawn to extinguish them. This daily routine happens regardless of weather conditions, and lamplighters often brave rain, snow, and bitter cold to bring light to the city.
While lamplighters once used a long pole with a small flame, today they carry a handheld torch with a gas igniter. However, the ritual is much the same. They follow a set route, and each lamp is carefully maintained to ensure it can be manually lit. Zagreb’s lamplighters not only uphold a tradition but also serve as keepers of the city’s history, offering a unique contrast to the bright, automated lights of the 21st century.
Zagreb cathedral at sunset Zagreb building Zagreb lights with flowers
Copyright of Zagreb's Tourist Board - authors: Boška & Krešo, M.Vrdoljak
Zagreb lamp Zagreb road cobblestone Zagreb city lamp and shadow
Copyright of Zagreb's Tourist Board - author: M.Vrdoljak
Why This Tradition Endures
In a world that is moving increasingly toward efficiency and automation, the role of the lamplighter may seem outdated, yet it remains a cherished part of Zagreb’s cultural heritage. This tradition provides a living connection to the past, creating a romantic ambiance that makes Zagreb’s Upper Town one of the most enchanting areas to visit at night. Each lamp symbolizes the city’s commitment to preserving its character and history, showing that some traditions, no matter how old, are worth keeping.
For locals, lamplighters are a beloved symbol of their city’s resilience and charm. For visitors, the sight of someone manually lighting each gas lamp is a glimpse into another time, creating a memorable experience in an otherwise modern city. Walking through the Upper Town as the lamps begin to glow, one can almost imagine Zagreb as it was in the 19th century, lit by the same soft glow that still illuminates these historic streets today.
St. Mark Church and Zagreb lamp St. Mark Church St. Mark Church and sky
Copyright of Zagreb's Tourist Board - authors: Boška & Krešo, S. Carek
The Future of Zagreb’s Lamplighters
Though preserving such traditions can be costly and time-consuming, Zagreb has shown a strong commitment to its lamplighters. Discussions occasionally arise about modernizing the city’s lighting system, but the gas lamps of the Upper Town remain off-limits. Local government, cultural organizations, and the city’s residents alike appreciate the unique atmosphere that the lamplighters create. There’s a shared understanding that the value of this tradition goes beyond the functional—it’s a tribute to the city’s heritage, a unique charm that defines Zagreb.
As Zagreb evolves, the nažigaci stand as a reminder that not all progress requires letting go of the past. They embody the city’s dedication to honoring tradition while moving forward, blending old and new in a way that feels authentic to Zagreb’s spirit. This nightly ritual of lighting the lamps speaks to the enduring nature of history, proving that even in a world lit by LED lights, there’s still room for the warmth of a single flame.
About the author
Lucija Mandac Dadić is the owner and travel designer behind Local Heroes Travel. Born and raised in Kaštela on Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, she uses her local knowledge and experience to create private, tailor-made journeys through Croatia, Slovenia and Montenegro. She works closely with trusted local hotels, guides and experience providers and believes that a well-designed journey is not about seeing as much as possible, but about finding the right balance between places, experiences and time to enjoy them.
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